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Culture · San Diego

Makeup Artist Says Apply Eye Shadow With Eyes Open to Lift Hooded Lids

Professional Mally Roncal advises women over 50 to use specific placement techniques to create visual depth without heavy product.

By Lauren Bello ·

Illustration for: Makeup Artist Says Apply Eye Shadow With Eyes Open to Lift Hooded Lids
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Professional makeup artist Mally Roncal advises women with hooded eyes to apply eye shadow with their eyes open and relaxed. This approach ensures that makeup remains visible when the gaze is directed forward, rather than getting hidden in the natural fold of the eyelid.

Roncal notes that traditional methods often fail for mature skin because the hooded area can obscure product applied to a closed eye. When the eye opens, the skin folds over, trapping shadow in a crease that is no longer seen. Applying product while the eye is open allows the user to see exactly where the color will land in daily use.

The technique focuses on strategic placement to create dimension rather than covering the lid with heavy layers. Roncal suggests using a medium or warm tone, such as soft brown, slightly above the natural crease. This placement creates a visual basin that adds depth without relying on a fold that may be hidden. The edges must be blended smoothly to keep the look natural.

For product selection, Roncal recommends stick shadows or cream formulas. These textures are easier to work with and blend seamlessly into the skin. They do not emphasize the natural texture of the skin, which can become more pronounced with age. The goal is a smooth application that sits lightly on the surface.

Eyeliner should remain subtle to avoid weighing down the lid. Roncal advises against thick lines that take up too much space on the eyelid. A small flick at the outer corner helps direct the visual line upward. Defining the outer third of the lower lashes adds balance without creating a harsh look.

The final step involves using mascara strategically. Concentrating the product on the upper lashes, particularly at the outer corners, reinforces the lifting effect. This simple adjustment makes the eyes appear more awake and open.

Roncal emphasizes that these adjustments allow the makeup to work with the natural structure of the eye. The result is a wider, more lifted appearance that stays visible throughout the day.

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